Tuesday, 30 January 2018

A ball of string

I spent yesterday afternoon clearing out an old man's garden shed. It was the normal treasure trove of heritage tools and artifacts, well worn and much loved. Sturdy wooden handled spades, forks, axes and rakes - built to last, blurred with time. Old jam jars and biscuit tins full of 'round-to-its' and 'may-come-in-handys'. Everything covered in a gentle patina of dust and soil, rust and toil.

Amongst the time coddled treasures was a muddled, muddied bundle garden twine. Slowly I began to untangle it. It reminded me of one of my grandmother's exercises designed to calm me down and teach me the virtues of purposeful patience. 'Here, help me untie this,' she would say and hand me a huge knotted ball of string.

An hour or so later I would hand her a neatly wound ball. 'There we are,' she'd say, 'that wasn't so bad was it?'

A couple of years ago I used a version of this exercise with a management team I was meant to be coaching. I spent part of an evening tangling mountain climbing rope into the most almighty Gordian Knot I could fit into my corporate workshop. We kicked off the next morning's session with the simple instruction, 'Sort it out as a team.'

The predictable scrum followed. Seven voices; six different process suggestions; five diagrams; four bystanders; three working groups; two minutes to go; one guy left holding the last knots - result!

Some problems are best tackled by one person at a time in a quiet old shed. Alternatively give them to my grandmother to sort out.

Monday, 1 December 2014

Answering Ireland's call

I flew into Dublin last week. The Ryanair flight was a few minutes early for its landing slot and chose to circle in a leisurely fashion over the gentle, mottled countryside below. It gave me a moment to pause and reflect on a country to which I feel inextricably linked.

My grandfather left Galway City in the 1890's as a nine year old boy who had just lost his father and eldest brother. His mother, a brave and enterprising soul, had gathered together her remaining brood and embarked on a journey of renewal to Cape Town - inevitably via Dublin itself and Liverpool. On the strength of that ancestral connection, I carry an Irish passport - proudly and conveniently.

The very first time I was able to use this invaluable travel document, I was nineteen and determined to visit the land of my forefather. On a bitterly cold, foggy morning disembarking from the ferry at Dun Laoghaire, I was part of a crowd of some two hundred day trippers who were confronted by a lone Irish immigration official sheltered alongside a brazier in a wooden quayside hut warming his hands on a mug. He poked a scarf-embalmed head out of his nest and peered at the advancing horde. It was definitely not a day for stepping outside and checking travel documents one by one. He waved one mittened hand.

'All you's with an Irish passport can carry on straight.'

The surge of freezing bodies hesitated but momentarily and then swept past him towards the promise of on-shore warmth. I was left holding my brand new, green, harp-adorned passport, uninspected and with a sense of betrayal - my moment of triumphal homecoming snatched from me by one man's pragmatic defiance of the elements.

I trod on Irish soil for the first time, unchallenged but also somehow unbaptised.

As I gazed down from my bargain seat on the ordered fields and hedgerows of the Pale, I remembered that first visit some forty years previously and my youthful awe at the power of lore and legend in Ireland. Apart from conferring on me the infinite gift of travel, my Irish passport had, over the years, given me a sense of identity, of connection with a tradition of literary giants - a largely unexplored causeway to world of Celtic faith and fealty.

The airline announcements crackled across my romantic, fanciful reflections. Within moments I was being processed through a modern airport portal, subject to a perfunctory passport check and bundled out into the milky light of a mild Dublin morning. Welcome home.


Friday, 11 July 2014

The world is round

I was on a flight from Manchester, UK to Atlanta on the day that the USA were playing Portugal in the 2014 FIFA World Cup. On the tiny screen jiggling around irritatingly on the seatback in front of me, I was following the game. USA scored and went ahead and all around me the whole plane erupted with cheers. Suddenly I realised that I was surrounded by American ‘soccer’ fans following the game as passionately as any in Manchester itself.
I began to compare notes with my neighbour who turned out to be an ex-US Army colonel who had then embarked on second career with a major oil and gas company. He was clearly a sports nut – it hardly takes one to recognise another.
‘C’mon,’ the colonel muttered to his players from 30 000 feet, ‘stay on offense.’
‘Attack,’ I correctly him mildly, ‘in football we say ‘attack’.’
‘Same difference, buddy, our wide receiver is playing for too deep.’ I peered at my bouncing screen. He had a point. Maybe he didn’t need my help understanding the beautiful game.
By the time Portugal had levelled the game 2-2 and we had both ripped off our headsets in disappointment, we could agree that the game provided us, if not with an exactly common language, then certainly a very useful set of shared metaphors. We quickly got into how the role of a sports coach differs subtly from code to code around the world and yet how fluidly the lessons of any successful coaching seem to apply in running a business.
I told him of a colleague of mine who had once opened a corporate training workshop in Saudi Arabia by asking who supported Manchester United. Half the room cheered wildly and the other half booed equally spontaneously. From there on a potentially tricky workshop simply hummed along. Football had provided us with a sure kick-off in the unlikeliest of arenas.
He told me all about his final football game for the Army and a never to be forgotten touchdown. I got it in a heartbeat. Sport can so easily be the container for our most precious memories.
Throughout the current World Cup I have heard American sports fans using the rich and expressive language of their own embedded sports vocabulary to help analyse their ‘roundball’ team’s strengths and weaknesses. They should be playing ‘man-to-man defense’ not ‘zone’. Their ‘playmaker’ is killing us ‘box-to-box’. Look at that great ‘pick-and-roll’ get right round the ‘perimeter D’. And so on right down to the agonising wire of those last minutes against Belgium – a state about the size of Maryland for crying in a bucket. In all sports there is the exquisite agony of heroic failure.

In the next two weeks this visceral pain will be felt in seven different countries from all around the globe. One winning population will bask gloriously in the fleeting euphoria of victory and then wake to a world that has rapidly moved on. However, what every sports glued to the World Cup will share is a renewed sense that great emotional well spring of globalisation, ‘we are all connected, we are all in this together.’  

Friday, 4 July 2014

The Prince

I met a prince yesterday. Not a royal one as it happens - more self-made. Geoff Prince is his name although it is his will to work rather than his surname that marks him out. 'Will to Work' is the charitable trust that Geoff has built which offers anybody in his town the opportunity to do an afternoon of carpentry, painting, sewing, fiddling with electrics or even just pottering about making tea in his community workshop - on one condition - you need to be 'feeling a bit poorly' as Geoff puts it.

His business model (not a term that Geoff bothers with much) is based on the fact that every day somebody clears out an old draw, cupboard or garage full of useful tools and materials that somebody else no longer needs. Will to Work accepts these items as donations and puts them back to work in Geoff's workshop housed in an old school building right alongside the town's health centre - with its handy rows of disabled parking spaces. Sensible doctors have begun to prescribe an afternoon's occupational therapy for many of their patients with a range of conditions which might be making them 'feel a bit poorly'. And from there good-hearted volunteers, donations, referrals, grants, goodwill and word of mouth does the rest. Oh, and endless shifts of time and love and tea put in by Geoff, his wife and their small core team.

Now I have designed and led and run hundreds of workshops myself. Most of them end up looking like an explosion in a Post-It factory with scribbled flip charts scattered everywhere and a tired facilitator gathering up evaluation forms - or 'happy sheets' as they are known in my trade. The Will to Work workshop doesn't do happy sheets - it just does happiness instead. And proves that every man can be a prince.


Tuesday, 14 May 2013

Dilbert

Dilbert announces to his boss that he has looked at every available book on leadership.

'What´s the secret?`

`Apparently leadership is the product of extreme sociopathy plus luck - all the other personality traits are inactive ingredients.` His boss looks both thoughtful and wary.

`Did you actually read all those books?` asks a colleague later.

`No,`says Dilbert, `I just needed to check that they were all different...`

Something in this exchange resonates. Have a good day.

Wednesday, 26 December 2012

The tough questions...?

I had a call from a client the other day - a senior executive in a global business. She wanted help in preparing a series of year end feedback interviews that she had scheduled with the team of six people reporting in to her. After some discussion about the purpose of the team and its work, we came up with this list:
  • What's the one thing I do that adds real value for you?
  • What's the one thing I do that really annoys you?
  • Does anything I do waste your time?
  • What else could I do differently to help you become more effective?
  • What's the toughest question I could ask you?
Quite a useful tool-kit. To be used with caution.  Happy 2013.



Saturday, 1 December 2012

Taking a bath

If there was one thing I had to do while in Turkey, it was to take a bath. I was raised under a 'cleanliness is next to godliness' regime and in the ablutionary world there is no higher state of absolution than the full Turkish experience.

Just alongside an entrance to the Grand Bazaar on my way towards the Blue Mosque, I spied a sign engraved in marble, 'Enter Istanbul's Oldest Hamam, 1584'. It sounded like an imperial proclamation that was impossible to ignore, let alone refuse.

The receptionist was dressed in a tightly fitting, shiny olive coloured suit complete with waistcoat and fob chain. His front of house manner was such that he could just as easily have been running a pre-war provincial cinema or a betting shop close to a major racecourse. He explained the tariff structure to me in careful, practised English. I opted for the DIY wash out of a slight cautiousness. With a snap of his fingers he summoned one of his underlings to escort me to a first floor locker room up a twisted flight of wooden steps. 'Undress,' was the curt, unambiguous command from the disappearing minion.

I looked around guardedly. On the bench in my private, caged locker room was small gingham tea towel presumably designed to afford me some modesty in my journey towards the steam, heat and thudding sounds that emanated from the floor above me. I stripped off, slipped on a pair of blue plastic bath thongs and tried with limited success to use the tea towel for its fit and proper purpose.

I stepped out of my locker cage and turned to head upstairs. A large hand clamped itself on my shoulder and propelled me slightly faster in the direction I was already going. My borrowed thongs slid unsteadily across the uneven dark grey marble slabs underfoot. I was ushered into the magnificent central arched vault of the hamam still driven firmly from behind by my attendant. 'DIY,' he spat out the term like a curse. Then all of a sudden I was alone in an echoing chamber of smoke.

Looking up I could see the sunlight streaming in through half the tiny windows circling the inner rim of the dome. The central section of the dome itself had been punctured like a pepper pot with more vents creating brilliant shafts angling through the steam. Rising a foot above the floor of the bath vault was the huge circular 'belly stone' platform in a lighter shade of grey marble. I went to sit on its nearest edge and immediately leapt up scalded. From one of the private alcove wash stations set around the outer circumference of the room, I heard a throaty chuckle. As I became accustomed to the steamy haze, I realised that I was in fact not alone at all and that several fellow bathers were attending to their rituals sluicing themselves down using the fawcets set above marble basins in each of the surrounding alcoves.

One of these fellows emerged carrying a shallow metal tin plate full of water and splashed it hissing over the belly stone before flipping his tin over and settling it as a pillow under his head as he stretched out on the gleaming slab like a cat rolling on its back in the sun. I made my way to an alcove to begin some private and tentative ablutionary experiments of my own. My small roughly chopped cake of soap smelt of freshly cut lemons. 

Step by step I began to get the hang of the DIY version of the splash, soap, lather and scrub routine that I saw being carried out by attendants on the more adventurous or accustomed bathers. My tea towel soon became a sodden scrap but still useful for insulating my buttocks from the sharp marble sting of the furniture. Slowly everything softened, relaxed, sweated and plumped up like a prune in hot water. It was easy to imagine the grittiness and stress of days of travelling washing away down the elaborate system of drains and gunnels criss-crossing the floor.

Super-saturated I dragged myself away from the quiet hiss and splash of the bath house and back in the direction from which I remembered entering. Not so fast. I was immediately apprehended by an attendant who looked as if he might well have done much of his earliest and best work in a high security penal establishment. Certainly his service philosophy seemed more shaped by Midnight Express than the Orient Express. This heavily moustachioed officer unceremoniously re-directed me towards the shower area, slapped open a tap and shoved me under the cold jet that emerged directly from a gouge in the tiles at head height. Gasping and clutching for my towel, I spluttered my thanks and stumbled towards the stair well.

As I approached the sanctuary of my locker, an unseen hand thrust a fresh white towel in front of me. It was soft, sweetly scented with lavender and with a deep, thickly luxurious pile that scoured my back and shoulders with the gentlest of rough caresses. I got dressed in a dream and headed out, cleansed, to face the purity of the Blue Mosque.



First, talk to the receptionist (most of them speak English) and decide on the level of treatment you want. DIY wash? Wash with attendant? Oil massage with that? You’ll pay the receptionist and they’ll take you to a change area, usually your own lockable room, where you’ll undress and leave your things.

Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/turkey/travel-tips-and-articles/8585#ixzz2DiFoKN8C
First, talk to the receptionist (most of them speak English) and decide on the level of treatment you want. DIY wash? Wash with attendant? Oil massage with that? You’ll pay the receptionist and they’ll take you to a change area, usually your own lockable room, where you’ll undress and leave your things.

Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/turkey/travel-tips-and-articles/8585#ixzz2DiFoKN8C



  • First, talk to the receptionist (most of them speak English) and decide on the level of treatment you want. DIY wash? Wash with attendant? Oil massage with that? You’ll pay the receptionist and they’ll take you to a change area, usually your own lockable room, where you’ll undress and leave your things.
  • ‘Undress’ means pretty much what you want it to mean. Most hamams have separate steam rooms for men and women. In this situation, men are expected to maintain a certain loin-clothy level of coverage, but women can throw caution, as it were, to the winds. Most Turkish women subtly drape themselves with their cloth when they’re not actually bathing, but if you prefer to bask nude no-one will bat much of an eyelid. If you’re feeling shy, part or all of a swimsuit is acceptable; if you find yourself in the kind of hamam that has mixed-sex steam rooms and male attendants, it’s usual to keep on at least the bottom half of a swimsuit.
  • The attendants will give you a cloth (resembling, in most establishments, an over-sized red gingham tea towel). You’ll keep this on to travel from the change rooms to the hamam.
  • You’ll be given some shoes by your attendant – either traditional wooden clogs or fluorescent flip-flops. Stick with ‘em. As a surface for pratfalls, only banana skins beat out wet marble.
  • Once you’ve been shepherded into the hamam you’ll be left to lounge on the heated marble. In most cases, there’ll be a göbektaşı (belly stone), a round central platform where you can loll around like a sunning python. If not, take a seat and lean against the walls. The idea is to sweat, loosening dirt and toxins in preparation for your wash.
  • If you’re going self-service, follow this up with a loofah-and-soap rub-down and douse yourself with water from the marble basins. If you’ve forked out for an attendant, they’ll catch up with you after you’ve had a good, 15-minute sweat. You’ll be laid down on the edge of the göbektaşı and sluiced with tepid water, then your attendant will take you in hand.
  • First up is a dry massage with a kese (rough mitt). Depending on your attendant, this experience can be delicious (a little like being washed by a giant cat) or tumultuous (picture a tornado made of sandpaper). If you get to feeling like a flayed deer, use the international language of charade to bring it down a notch or two.
  • Next will be the soap. The attendant will work up an almighty lather with an enormous sponge and squeeze it all over you: it’s a bit like taking a bubble bath without the bath. The foam (attar of roses? Asses’ milk? Sorry, it’s most likely good ole Head ‘n’ Shoulders) will be worked into every inch of you. Next, more sluicing, followed by a shampoo, and voila, you’re clean as a whistle. The shiny kind.
  • If you’ve ordered an oil massage, you’ll be ushered into another room for it. Unless you’re particularly flush, it’s probably best to skip this bit: the massages are brief and often lack finesse, and the oils are hardly deluxe.
  • After the massage, either soap or oil, you’re on your own. Many tourists splash-and-dash their way through the hamam experience, leaving immediately after their treatment. Don’t be one of them. Hang around. Overheat, cool down with a dousing, and repeat to fade. Let your muscles turn to toffee and your mind go pleasantly elastic. This is what the hamam is really all about.


  • Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/turkey/travel-tips-and-articles/8585#ixzz2DiFMlRQw



  • First, talk to the receptionist (most of them speak English) and decide on the level of treatment you want. DIY wash? Wash with attendant? Oil massage with that? You’ll pay the receptionist and they’ll take you to a change area, usually your own lockable room, where you’ll undress and leave your things.
  • ‘Undress’ means pretty much what you want it to mean. Most hamams have separate steam rooms for men and women. In this situation, men are expected to maintain a certain loin-clothy level of coverage, but women can throw caution, as it were, to the winds. Most Turkish women subtly drape themselves with their cloth when they’re not actually bathing, but if you prefer to bask nude no-one will bat much of an eyelid. If you’re feeling shy, part or all of a swimsuit is acceptable; if you find yourself in the kind of hamam that has mixed-sex steam rooms and male attendants, it’s usual to keep on at least the bottom half of a swimsuit.
  • The attendants will give you a cloth (resembling, in most establishments, an over-sized red gingham tea towel). You’ll keep this on to travel from the change rooms to the hamam.
  • You’ll be given some shoes by your attendant – either traditional wooden clogs or fluorescent flip-flops. Stick with ‘em. As a surface for pratfalls, only banana skins beat out wet marble.
  • Once you’ve been shepherded into the hamam you’ll be left to lounge on the heated marble. In most cases, there’ll be a göbektaşı (belly stone), a round central platform where you can loll around like a sunning python. If not, take a seat and lean against the walls. The idea is to sweat, loosening dirt and toxins in preparation for your wash.
  • If you’re going self-service, follow this up with a loofah-and-soap rub-down and douse yourself with water from the marble basins. If you’ve forked out for an attendant, they’ll catch up with you after you’ve had a good, 15-minute sweat. You’ll be laid down on the edge of the göbektaşı and sluiced with tepid water, then your attendant will take you in hand.
  • First up is a dry massage with a kese (rough mitt). Depending on your attendant, this experience can be delicious (a little like being washed by a giant cat) or tumultuous (picture a tornado made of sandpaper). If you get to feeling like a flayed deer, use the international language of charade to bring it down a notch or two.
  • Next will be the soap. The attendant will work up an almighty lather with an enormous sponge and squeeze it all over you: it’s a bit like taking a bubble bath without the bath. The foam (attar of roses? Asses’ milk? Sorry, it’s most likely good ole Head ‘n’ Shoulders) will be worked into every inch of you. Next, more sluicing, followed by a shampoo, and voila, you’re clean as a whistle. The shiny kind.
  • If you’ve ordered an oil massage, you’ll be ushered into another room for it. Unless you’re particularly flush, it’s probably best to skip this bit: the massages are brief and often lack finesse, and the oils are hardly deluxe.
  • After the massage, either soap or oil, you’re on your own. Many tourists splash-and-dash their way through the hamam experience, leaving immediately after their treatment. Don’t be one of them. Hang around. Overheat, cool down with a dousing, and repeat to fade. Let your muscles turn to toffee and your mind go pleasantly elastic. This is what the hamam is really all about.


  • Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/turkey/travel-tips-and-articles/8585#ixzz2DiFMlRQw



  • First, talk to the receptionist (most of them speak English) and decide on the level of treatment you want. DIY wash? Wash with attendant? Oil massage with that? You’ll pay the receptionist and they’ll take you to a change area, usually your own lockable room, where you’ll undress and leave your things.
  • ‘Undress’ means pretty much what you want it to mean. Most hamams have separate steam rooms for men and women. In this situation, men are expected to maintain a certain loin-clothy level of coverage, but women can throw caution, as it were, to the winds. Most Turkish women subtly drape themselves with their cloth when they’re not actually bathing, but if you prefer to bask nude no-one will bat much of an eyelid. If you’re feeling shy, part or all of a swimsuit is acceptable; if you find yourself in the kind of hamam that has mixed-sex steam rooms and male attendants, it’s usual to keep on at least the bottom half of a swimsuit.
  • The attendants will give you a cloth (resembling, in most establishments, an over-sized red gingham tea towel). You’ll keep this on to travel from the change rooms to the hamam.
  • You’ll be given some shoes by your attendant – either traditional wooden clogs or fluorescent flip-flops. Stick with ‘em. As a surface for pratfalls, only banana skins beat out wet marble.
  • Once you’ve been shepherded into the hamam you’ll be left to lounge on the heated marble. In most cases, there’ll be a göbektaşı (belly stone), a round central platform where you can loll around like a sunning python. If not, take a seat and lean against the walls. The idea is to sweat, loosening dirt and toxins in preparation for your wash.
  • If you’re going self-service, follow this up with a loofah-and-soap rub-down and douse yourself with water from the marble basins. If you’ve forked out for an attendant, they’ll catch up with you after you’ve had a good, 15-minute sweat. You’ll be laid down on the edge of the göbektaşı and sluiced with tepid water, then your attendant will take you in hand.
  • First up is a dry massage with a kese (rough mitt). Depending on your attendant, this experience can be delicious (a little like being washed by a giant cat) or tumultuous (picture a tornado made of sandpaper). If you get to feeling like a flayed deer, use the international language of charade to bring it down a notch or two.
  • Next will be the soap. The attendant will work up an almighty lather with an enormous sponge and squeeze it all over you: it’s a bit like taking a bubble bath without the bath. The foam (attar of roses? Asses’ milk? Sorry, it’s most likely good ole Head ‘n’ Shoulders) will be worked into every inch of you. Next, more sluicing, followed by a shampoo, and voila, you’re clean as a whistle. The shiny kind.
  • If you’ve ordered an oil massage, you’ll be ushered into another room for it. Unless you’re particularly flush, it’s probably best to skip this bit: the massages are brief and often lack finesse, and the oils are hardly deluxe.
  • After the massage, either soap or oil, you’re on your own. Many tourists splash-and-dash their way through the hamam experience, leaving immediately after their treatment. Don’t be one of them. Hang around. Overheat, cool down with a dousing, and repeat to fade. Let your muscles turn to toffee and your mind go pleasantly elastic. This is what the hamam is really all about.


  • Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/turkey/travel-tips-and-articles/8585#ixzz2DiFMlRQw



  • First, talk to the receptionist (most of them speak English) and decide on the level of treatment you want. DIY wash? Wash with attendant? Oil massage with that? You’ll pay the receptionist and they’ll take you to a change area, usually your own lockable room, where you’ll undress and leave your things.
  • ‘Undress’ means pretty much what you want it to mean. Most hamams have separate steam rooms for men and women. In this situation, men are expected to maintain a certain loin-clothy level of coverage, but women can throw caution, as it were, to the winds. Most Turkish women subtly drape themselves with their cloth when they’re not actually bathing, but if you prefer to bask nude no-one will bat much of an eyelid. If you’re feeling shy, part or all of a swimsuit is acceptable; if you find yourself in the kind of hamam that has mixed-sex steam rooms and male attendants, it’s usual to keep on at least the bottom half of a swimsuit.
  • The attendants will give you a cloth (resembling, in most establishments, an over-sized red gingham tea towel). You’ll keep this on to travel from the change rooms to the hamam.
  • You’ll be given some shoes by your attendant – either traditional wooden clogs or fluorescent flip-flops. Stick with ‘em. As a surface for pratfalls, only banana skins beat out wet marble.
  • Once you’ve been shepherded into the hamam you’ll be left to lounge on the heated marble. In most cases, there’ll be a göbektaşı (belly stone), a round central platform where you can loll around like a sunning python. If not, take a seat and lean against the walls. The idea is to sweat, loosening dirt and toxins in preparation for your wash.
  • If you’re going self-service, follow this up with a loofah-and-soap rub-down and douse yourself with water from the marble basins. If you’ve forked out for an attendant, they’ll catch up with you after you’ve had a good, 15-minute sweat. You’ll be laid down on the edge of the göbektaşı and sluiced with tepid water, then your attendant will take you in hand.
  • First up is a dry massage with a kese (rough mitt). Depending on your attendant, this experience can be delicious (a little like being washed by a giant cat) or tumultuous (picture a tornado made of sandpaper). If you get to feeling like a flayed deer, use the international language of charade to bring it down a notch or two.
  • Next will be the soap. The attendant will work up an almighty lather with an enormous sponge and squeeze it all over you: it’s a bit like taking a bubble bath without the bath. The foam (attar of roses? Asses’ milk? Sorry, it’s most likely good ole Head ‘n’ Shoulders) will be worked into every inch of you. Next, more sluicing, followed by a shampoo, and voila, you’re clean as a whistle. The shiny kind.
  • If you’ve ordered an oil massage, you’ll be ushered into another room for it. Unless you’re particularly flush, it’s probably best to skip this bit: the massages are brief and often lack finesse, and the oils are hardly deluxe.
  • After the massage, either soap or oil, you’re on your own. Many tourists splash-and-dash their way through the hamam experience, leaving immediately after their treatment. Don’t be one of them. Hang around. Overheat, cool down with a dousing, and repeat to fade. Let your muscles turn to toffee and your mind go pleasantly elastic. This is what the hamam is really all about.


  • Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/turkey/travel-tips-and-articles/8585#ixzz2DiFMlRQw